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HAUT
CORSE
GENERAL
INFORMATION
The northern half of the Corse (
Corsica) region is the department of
Haute-Corse, the Southern half of Corse is Corse du Sud. Cap Corse in the
northern area of Haut Corse boasts valleys, mountains, sandy beaches and
spectacular views. To the west is the coast around Calvi, where crystal clear
waters & sandy beaches are backed by the snow-capped
peak of
Monte
Cinto.
Between Monte Cinto and the sea is the fertile
land
of
Balagne
which gives way to the desert area to the east of the stunning Ile Rousse.
HISTORY
The
département was formed on September 15, 1975, when the département of Corse was
divided into Haute-Corse and Corse-du-Sud. The département corresponds exactly
to the former département of Golo which existed between 1793 and 1811.
THINGS
TO DO AND SEE
Characterised
by the thriving port capital of Bastia,
all Italianate style buildings and Calvi, where Nelson lost his eye, the north
is a bit lighter on hide-away beaches but bigger on classy resorts.
Bastia
really bustles with its daily outdoor food
market at the Place de l’Hotel de Ville, from where it’s a short
stroll to a handful of extrovertly ornate churches such as Eglise Ste-Marie
with its Virgin made out of a tonne of solid silver.
The old town is worth taking
some time over as it has preserved its streets in the form of steps which
inter-connect by vaulted passages. This adds a good bit of interesting
atmospheric pace to what could otherwise be the usual "nose buried in the guide
book" short canter.

Calvi,
a roughly 70 km drive over on the north-west by comparison, is a bit of a
humdrum split: half military, half resort town, although a number of
palm-shaded cafés around the Quai Landry, and flashy
yachts hark back to the days when the town pulled in the jet set.
Tracing a languid route along the coastal stops from Calvi,
L’Ile-Rousse with its flapping laundry on the lines and pétanque
players makes for more recognisable
France
. While the waterfront
strip at St Florent has more
than a touch of the
Riviera
. Both are worth exploring before heading inland.
Corte is really the inland
highlight, not just for exploring the nearby mountain area and Gorges de la
Restonica but for the Musée de la Corse. The museum displays island traditions
such as boar hunting, rather weird looking "Klan" style costumes that are worn
for religious festivals and the disembodied sounds of
Corsican folk songs. It’s a singular experience.
Vivario
and Vizzavona lie in the
wildest part of the Corsican interior. With waterfalls, rocks and forests, this
is excellent walking country. The Grande
Randonnée GR20 runs through the area with a trail up
Mont
d’Oro for experienced hikers. There are shorter loops for the less adventurous,
such as Les Gorges du Manganellu.
Pushing another 40km on to the east coast,
Aléria probably has the best collection of island artefacts
recovered from tombs on the Roman Site.
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